Sunday 20th October 2024 - Bowland Bound

Walk Leader – Neil Harwood

Number on walk – 4

Distance – 18 miles.

Weather – Cloudy and rain in the morning but brighten up to be a very nice sunny day although very windy.

When leading a walk, especially out of season you have to very mindful of weather and conditions – my mental risk assessment of sorts. Throughout the previous week I had been subject to weather reports about gale force winds and rain from the impending Storm Ashley, which was due to reach us on the day of the walk. Should I cancel? It was tempting but the closer to the day we got the less severe the forecast became for us in Lancashire. By Saturday it was forecast to be dry after midday although it would remain windy. So, no excuses, on with the walk. Although it is not just about the weather, it is also about the conditions that weather brings particularly the after effects of weather in the previous few days. More of this later.

When I woke up on Sunday it was dark but no rain surprisingly. Perhaps the forecast was wrong. It was a quick easy journey to Chipping on an early Sunday morning and I was greeted by three other hardy individuals. My walks have a reputation as I love the Bowland bogs and I seem to attract the worst of the weather, so four of us was a good turnout.

The first couple of hours is a pleasant walk up the Hodder valley to Dunsop Bridge, the Centre of the Kingdom. On the way we visited one of my favourite spots in Lancashire, Whitewell. The views from New Laund Hill are some of the best in the county even when visibility is poor, and when struggling to stand up in the wind on this exposed little hill. Then its down to the Hodder to cross the stepping stones. My other anxiety in the week was whether the river would be too high and we would not be able to cross here. There was easy work around but we were in luck as the stones were still well exposed although care was needed. Focus on the steps and not the rushing water. We all made it!

It had still not rained so off came my waterproof trousers and of course it then started. Inevitable. Some boggy fields greeted us after Burholme Bridge but the autumn colours were on full show. If only we had the sun to bring them out. A quick stop in Dunsop Bridge for hot refreshments – flasks of coffee or tea from Puddleducks Tea Rooms – was most welcome.

Still, it rained but as we headed across to Langden Back and then up its valley towards the Trough of Bowland, but then blue sky appeared right on time. This is a lovely valley, and the bracken was golden brown. Lunch was taken at the small wood by the road up to the Langden Intake. It was still cool, but the weather looked more promising. We then headed west up the Langden valley into the heart of the Southern Bowland Fells. Effectively it is a dead end unless you climb out and over the top or retrace your steps back, which was not on the agenda. And that brings me to my other worry. The route involves crossing Langden Back to climb up to Fiendsdale Head. I had never not been able to cross it but there are tales in the Group of this happening. With being able to cross the steppingstones, I had been confident but we came across a raging torrent of water, too wide to jump and most stones submerged. To cut a long story short, Peter, the oldest of our group, found a way across and he helped me across. My other two walkers were not keen and looked valiantly for another easier crossing but there were none. A big intake of courage and more help from Peter and we were all across. Not having to return the long way back just a long hard climb up to Fiendsdale now! As we got higher, the views across the Bowland Fells opened up but so did the wind and when we got to the top, we could feel the full force of Storm Ashley.

So bracing ourselves, we headed into the wind and across the bogs from Fiendsdale Head to Fair Snape Fell. Firstly, it’s the cairn, which marks the summit at 520m (1707ft) and then across another boggy bit to the trig point, shelter and Paddy’s Pole. The shelter came in useful as it was quite difficult to stand up. The views though, as often is the case from here, were superb.

Then the final leg, the descent towards Parlick with a final sting of a sharp climb up to its summit and then back into Chipping making use of the road – much easier after a hard day’s walk battling against the elements.

My thanks to my three intrepid walkers, who accompanied me on what I think is one of the best walks in Lancashire, if you are ok with the bogs. A great variety of scenery and brilliant views even in a Storm.