Sunset & Sunrise, over the Yorkshire 3 Peaks | Fri-Sat, 5-6 July 2019


Walk Leader: Steph Carter
Participants: 19
Mileage: 24 miles
Ascent: 7,060 ft
Walk Register: Yes
Walk Report: Steph Carter

 

Little did we know that we would be in for a walk of high drama involving a mountain rescue as 19 of us assembled at the roadside at Ribblehead, to be treated with sweet and savoury snacks and soft drinks from our 3 fantastic volunteer Marshals, Roger, Caroline and Dave (thank you to them!). We had one no show due to a stomach upset, and set off on time at 8.30pm

The forecast was pretty dismal - with heavy rain forecast in the early hours of the morning and the late evening weather was overcast, with the three peak’s heads all enveloped by low cloud.  Passing below the magnificent Ribblehead viaduct was a great start, and the long and relatively gentle haul up Whernside followed.  Nearing the top we were enveloped in mist, it’s moistness a welcome coolant after the climb, but unwelcome for its obliteration of the view. Our route flattened, telling us we were on the ridge of the summit, and soon enough we reached the narrow wall gap that allows access to Whernside’s trigpoint. 

While the cloud brought an early twilight, it also prolonged it, and, after a 5 minute rest and regather we continued onward, to tackle the steep rocky and long descent from Whernside - our most dangerous descent of the walk.  With the emphasis on care and each taking their time in the advancing gloom we got down and regathered at the lowest wall, grateful for the ongoing improvements in the path, which, although work is not complete is already of benefit.  

The tarmacked Philpin Lane took us down to the Ribblehead road through recently harvested haylage fields, with the sweet aroma of fresh hay. Reaching the road at about 11.15pm our support volunteers were there to greet us in the bunk barn car park, with sandwiches, sweet and savoury snacks and hot drinks.  Too soon it was time to move on, on the road past the Hill Inn for a short distance then to start the gradual (at first) ascent across the limestone pavements of Ingleborough. Now in near full darkness the huge Braithwaite Wife pothole looked eerie as we skirted its edge, and too soon the route was steepening across the brilliantly named Humphrey Bottom, before levelling briefly, now in low cloud once more as we hit the ultra-steep section towards the summit.

As always the fitter ones gambolled up, while the less fit ones panted their lungs inside out to varying degrees of entirety.  Care was needed  as we made the final slightly scrambling ascent above The Arks to the summit plateau, and regathered before the last 200 metres over the rocky plain to the trig point. The summit of Ingleborough is disorienting in daylight on a clear day, so in the dark in cloud we took extra care - setting a spare headtorch as our beacon to identify the correct exit point, and using  a sat nav (with compass to hand as back up) to find the summit.  Two climbs done our mood, having previously been focussed on the climb, lightened  as we began our descent. The low cloud stayed with us for a while as made our way across the seemingly never ending rock pavement shelves gently losing height. Suddenly, with the cloud now above us, the distant orange lights of Horton appeared, tantalising us as there was still some way to go.  Rock pavement gave way to rolling grassy meadows, with grass recently cut.

There’s a sign next to the wall one field away from Horton-in-Ribblesdale which  is a plea from the locals to keep the noise down while walking through the village. I asked our group to respect this - especially as it was about 3 am in the morning, and, in the way of the LDWA at its best the walk through Horton was done in absolute silence, save for the gentle sound of footfall, to reach the village hall at the south end of the village. Sanctuary - seats, pie and peas (or beans) a hot drink and rice pudding and blackcurrant Jam (thanks again to our supporters).  It may have been 3.15 in the morning, but most of us had an appetite.

Half an hour gone, we thanked out support and left the village hall, again in complete silence. The forecast heavy rain had not materialised, but for a very occasional isolated spot, and reaching Bracken Bottom, where we left the minor roads tarmac to begin climb across Pen y Ghent’s limestone pavements the hint of first dim light of dawn was with us.  From a personal perspective I was tired now, and, in the increasing light I could see the steep sided summit of P y G nearing ahead of me, half glad to be reaching it, half wishing it was further away so I didn’t have to climb steeply soon.  It was on this approach to the steep climb, as daylight increased, that we were overtaken by a friendly walker, going a good pace, and with a small carrier bag of water and provisions.  We thought no more of this, and soon reached the wall to meet the Pennine Way and the start of the steep climb where we regathered.

As usual some found the climb easier than others and we soon spread out.  As walk leader, on the steep sections I tend to lead, like a politician, from somewhere near the back and I couldn’t understand why, near the final part of the steep section those ahead of me were stopping, to rest, or so I thought - when they were almost there. As I approached all became clear. The walker who had previously past us had fallen, banged his head and hurt his wrist. He was conscious, but had a graze on his head.  He wanted to carry on, but we were concerned he may have hurt himself more than he realised with the possibility of concussion, and advised him not to carry on.  Instead we called mountain rescue, and provided coats and emergency shelters to keep him warm.  

After some discussion we decided that 3 volunteers (Wendy, Jon  and Jackie) would stay with him until Mountain Rescue arrived, and  I would lead the rest of the group on to the finish (still some 7 miles away).  We therefore split up, and the main group continued on - reaching Pen y Ghent summit quickly - distracted from our fatigue by recent events so continuing straight on with the descent from P y G - steep at first, but then long and rolling - crossing the natural limestone “God’s Bridge” before reaching a farm track that took us down to cross the infant River Ribble and soon onto the Ribblehead road for the last mile to the finish, crossing the amazingly named Batty Wife Beck to reach the layby and our cars. 

We completed (excepting the star volunteers who stayed with the injured walker) in around 11 hours 30 minutes so, although it was not the goal, have completed the Yorkshire 3 Peaks within the time limit.  Wendy, Jackie and Jon waited about an hour for mountain rescue  They safely made it  back, having seen the injured party into safe hands.

Photos by Tony Jenner