Walk Report

This last Saturday our 19 mile walk moved from the epic and challenging to the sublime and gently undulating landscape of the upper Tees, beginning at Whorlton, a small village on the north bank of the Tees four miles downstream from Barnard Castle. There was snow - more than we had witnessed in The Cheviots - and there was climbing and clambering - not up to summits but over the numerous and varied stiles along our route - stone ones, wooden ones, a couple made of concrete and all of very varied construction and condition from rickety, wobbly and slippery to the solid sound and readily negotiable! Not forgetting the added treat of a muddy wet hollow or stone hidden in the snow at the other side! It wasn't called a 'stiley walk for nothing. On doing a number of recces of the walk to find the best possible route Donna said that she and Steve had given up counting beyond 70!!! We were blessed with a very still bright morning, some cloud in the afternoon and for the most part it felt mild, in spite of the forecast being for -2 to 2 degrees, hence my being in double layers. We left Whorlton, with its telephone box library outside The Bridge Inn, following the Tees downstream - a beautiful walk along woodland paths - passing the derelict 'boathouse'. I found an article that appeared in the Teesdale Mercury 15 Jan 2017, following much effort by the Parish Council Chairman to trace its history. Cllr Stastny subsequently installed the commemorative plaque to Ada Pressley, having had the opportunity to speak with her to learn that she spent her childhood at the house from the 1930s until 1952 when it was condemned. Apparently, in the cellar there was a great big arch where, it was said, they used to bring the boats in. Further along we witnessed a lady on the far bank venturing out for a cold morning dip, an activity I would like to take up myself - great health benefits when you've got over the initial shock! We crossed the B6274 just ahead of Winston Bridge. Erected in 1762-63 it could at one time claim to be the longest single span bridge in England, even in Europe. It is famed for being used in the filming of the television series 'A Piece of Cake' in July 1988, where a Spitfire flew under the bridge. It was piloted by Ray Hanna, a founding member of the Red Arrows aerobatic team. Thanks for this information Steve. We didn't see the model Spitfire which, I understand, is mounted on the bridge parapet. From here we turned in from the Tees to walk across Winston Memorial Green. The Millennium Stone that we pondered about, given that the display board was no longer readable, is a glacial erratic uncovered from a 15 metre thick deposit of boulder clay in a nearby quarry. Can find nothing about the stone conical hut behind. We climbed up the steps to the viewing platform from which there are extensive and delightful views towards the Cleveland Hills and thereon passed the gate to the Church of St Andrew we viewed from below. Our route now led us over fields, along tracks, over bridges and many stiles, of course, heading towards Staindrop, where we had the first of two breaks in the porch of St Mary's church. I was astonished at the impressive size, beauty and history within, indicative that the now small village has had much greater significance in past times. Of course it is close by Raby Castle, one of the best medieval castles in northern England and its history is reflected by the magnificent tombs and effigies within the church of the Neville family, an influential Norman family, who were the most important barons in the Bishopric of Durham from the twelfth century onwards. The Rising of the North in 1569, an attempt to replace Elizabeth I with her cousin, the Roman Catholic Mary Queen of Scots, at a time when the people of northern England were mostly of the Catholic faith, was plotted by the Neville's with support of the powerful Percy family of Northumberland. From constantly battling with the Scots, on this occasion the North offered support, though it failed, with consequences. Thereafter Raby became the seat of the Vanes, Earls of Darlington and Dukes of Cleveland, the present owner, Lord Barnard being a member of this family. He is the owner of the vast Raby Estate which extends over a large area of south Durham. We headed out north again towards Wackerfield and then, turning in a westerly direction and subsequently south along tarmac and through woodland, North Wood, we came to The Gateway Folly on Raby estate. This curious structure was built in 1780 during renovation works to the castle which involved the demolition of the Medieval Barbican. The architect, John Carr of York, used the archway and other elements of the Barbican in the construction of his design for 'a ruined gateway with lodges' to act as a screen. As we continued through the woodland we had delightful views of Raby Castle and the rolling landscape beyond and, out on the road, we saw the frontage and the magnificent herd of deer in the extensive parkland. We returned to Staindrop for our second break beside Langley Beck overlooking the church, before following fields, tracks and paths, some a little clarty by now, wending our way south on our return via Cleatlam Hall and Little Newsham to Whorlton and to a welcome pint and banter, for those who stayed on, at The Bridge Inn. Many thanks to Steve and Donna who plotted the route and led our walk across a delightful snowy landscape and to everyone for their company. I had 'a moment' nearby one thick patch of snow when Steve mentioned 'angel's in the snow' and couldn't resist falling back into the cushion of white to flay my arms about!! It had to be done. Of course getting up wasn't as easy as falling back!!! Finally, a wee riposte to Paul Ashman's amusing poetic description of the walk, taking my name in vane again: 'I am not an old goat - and I don't drink lager - I drink Guinness - and I'm young at heart - a Libran tiger - grrrr!!' ( Beryl Massey)

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